The silicone seal around your bath, shower tray and where tiles meet other surfaces is doing an important job — keeping water out of the gaps. Here's what John sees going wrong with silicone in Stirling homes, and how to deal with it.
If water is getting through the tiles, the most likely culprit is the silicone — the seal at the bottom and corners of your tiled area. Old or damaged silicone lets water behind the tiles, which can cause damage to the wall behind and lead to much bigger (and more expensive) problems. The good news is it's a straightforward job to fix yourself.
What you'll need
Head to your local DIY store and pick up a tube of silicone, a silicone gun and some Stanley blades. Go for anti-mould silicone — it'll stay looking clean considerably longer than standard silicone. All in, you're looking at under £20.
How to replace the silicone
Make sure the area is fully dry
This is the part people rush and then wonder why the new silicone doesn't bond. The surface has to be completely dry before you start. Any moisture underneath will prevent the silicone from adhering properly.
Remove every bit of the old silicone
New silicone won't stick to old — this is non-negotiable. Use fresh Stanley blades to run along the top and bottom of the existing bead. It should peel up reasonably easily, but go back with a single blade to scrape off any bits left behind. Every last bit has to come off. Don't be tempted to apply new silicone over old — it won't hold.
Fill the bath before you start applying
If you're resealing around a bath, fill it with water first. A bath flexes under the weight of water, and if you apply the silicone with an empty bath it will crack as soon as the bath is loaded. Apply with the bath full, let it cure, then empty it — the silicone sets in the right position and stays put.
Apply the silicone
Put the tube in the gun and cut the tip off at an angle — this makes application easier and gives you more control over the bead size. Squeeze the gun gently until the silicone flows evenly, then hold the angled nozzle towards the corner and move slowly along in a straight line, squeezing as you go. On longer runs, do it half at a time rather than trying to do the whole length in one go.
Smooth it with a wet finger
Once you have a bead running along the area, smooth it with your finger. Wet your finger first — it stops the silicone sticking. John uses saliva (perfectly effective), but washing up liquid and water works just as well. Run your finger along the bead with moderate pressure — too hard and you'll pull the silicone out of the joint. Do small sections at a time and keep a towel handy to wipe the excess off as you go. While the silicone is still wet, check for any gaps or thin spots and touch those up.
Leave it to cure overnight
Once done, leave the bath half-filled with water while the silicone sets — this keeps it in the right position. Don't use the bath or shower until the following day. Moisture will prolong the curing process, so give it the full overnight. Check the next day for any holes or thin spots before declaring it done.
If you're not confident with the job or simply don't have the time, John is happy to help. Silicone renewal is one of his most-requested jobs across Stirling and Edinburgh — a professional result for a very reasonable price. See the regrouting & silicone service → Call 07877 486 939 for a free quote. JHDS Plumbing & Tiling accepts no responsibility for damage caused following our guides. If in doubt, contact a professional before starting.
If there's mould or damage behind the silicone, or if you've replaced it yourself and it keeps cracking — the underlying issue needs fixing first. John can assess this and carry out the full job correctly. Get a free quote →
"John resealed the bath — looks brand new. Took less than an hour. Would definitely recommend."