I've been working as a plumber and tiler across Stirling and Edinburgh for over 15 years. In that time I've seen people pay far more than they needed to for simple jobs — often because they didn't have the right tools or know-how to hand. This is my list of what every homeowner should have, so that when something goes wrong you can deal with it yourself or at least understand what's happening before calling a plumber.
The kit list
Before anything else — find your mains stopcock and make sure it turns. It's usually under the kitchen sink or near the front door. Turning it off kills the cold water supply to the whole house. On some properties half the house is fed from a cold water tank in the loft, so check those isolation valves too.
A pair of medium-sized water pump pliers and an adjustable spanner will cover the vast majority of plumbing jobs you'll encounter. Two sets of water pump pliers are sometimes needed — one to hold the fitting steady while the other works the nut. Without this, the whole pipework just spins, or worse, bends out of position.
A multi-bit screwdriver reduces the number of tools you need to carry. A set of stubby screwdrivers is invaluable for getting into tight spaces under sinks and behind cisterns where a full-length screwdriver simply won't fit.
A pack of Allen keys has more uses in plumbing than you'd think. A set of box spanners is also worth having — one set for the back of monoblock taps and another for releasing backing nuts from taps and valves.
PTFE tape (also called plumber's tape) seals leaking compression joints — wrap it clockwise around the thread before connecting. Leak sealing spray and Denso tape are useful for a temporary fix on a leaking pipe while you wait for a permanent repair.
A high-powered head torch is an absolute must when investigating leaks under a sink, behind a bath panel or in a loft. You need both hands free and good light to see what you're dealing with.
A roll of paper towels or a bag of old rags is essential for cleaning up water from small leaks and keeping the area dry while you work. Sounds obvious — but you'll be glad you had them.
In modern homes, isolation valves are found beneath taps, tanks and water inlet pipework. They have a small slit for a flat-headed screwdriver. Turn the slit to vertical to shut off flow beyond that point, allowing you to work on a tap or fitting without turning off the whole house.
A standard plunger works for bath, shower and sink drains. A toilet plunger has a funnel shape that applies more force down the drain. Key tip: when unclogging a sink, use a second plunger to cover the overflow — this stops air escaping and maximises the pressure you can generate. Same goes for a bath — cover the overflow on both the bath and sink.
A slow or reduced flow from a tap is often just a worn washer. Pick up a set of assorted tap washers from any DIY store. Isolate the tap using the isolation valve, unscrew the body of the tap from the base, check the washer and replace if worn. Takes about 20 minutes once you've done it.
Bonus tip — clearing an airlock
On older gravity-fed systems, airlocks can reduce or stop the flow from a tap completely. If a cold tap fed from the tank has stopped flowing, here's the fix: connect a length of hose between the mains hot tap and the cold tap in question, jubilee-clipping both ends. Open the cold tap, then open the mains hot for 5–10 seconds, then release the hose and check the cold. You may need to do this a few times. What's happening is the pressure of the mains hot is shooting up through the cold pipework and blasting the air bubble back into the tank.
If it's a monoblock tap, simply open the mains hot and hold your hand tightly over the nozzle — this forces the flow up the cold side and clears the air trap.
If you run into a problem you can't solve, give John a call on 07877 486 939 — he's happy to give advice over the phone before you commit to a callout. See John's plumbing services →
Got a plumbing problem you can't fix? John covers Stirling, Dunblane and Edinburgh.